Palau: An Overview
Location
Palau is located in Southwest Micronesia, Micronesia being an island group and subregion of Oceania in the Western Pacific Ocean,16 or Philippine Sea,18 and it is surrounded by Guam to the northeast, South Guinea to the south, and the Philippines to the west.16 It is made up of 586 islands.7 Here are some maps that you can look at to see more closely where Palau is located globally, regionally, and how it comprises many different islands.
The islands of Palau are primarily made up of coral and volcanic rock.16 Together, they all form an archipelago surrounded by a barrier reef system.16 The total land area of all of Palau is 188 square miles, and 78% of this area is the island of Babeldaob.11 Koror and Babeldaob, which are volcanic islands connected by a steel bridge, are Palau’s largest islands.16 They are also the most species rich of all of Palau’s islands, as they include a diversity of habitats that I will detail below.7
Palau has a tropical climate, as it gets an annual rainfall of about 150 inches, has a very high humidity that ranges from 86-91%, and averages temperatures between 77-87℉ year round.11 Its driest months are January through March, and it gets the most rain between June and October, during monsoon season.12
There are many types of terrain and geographies across Palau’s many islands. At the top of Palau’s island chain is the Kayangel atoll, in the center are the volcanic islands, and at the bottom are the coral islands.11 Like I briefly mentioned before, Koror and Babeldaob are examples of these volcanic islands. They are composed of andesite and are surrounded by thick mangrove forests.11 Other islands like Angaur, Sonsorol, Pulo, Anna, and Tobi are coral islands, which are fringed by large barrier reefs and located within a lagoon.11 These coral islands are also known as “rock islands,” as they are uplifted reefs made of limestone, which is a hard and porous substrate.11
Across Palau’s many islands, there are a wide variety of habitat types, including limestone forests, mangrove forests, swamp forests, interior volcanic forests, and savannas.7 Limestone forests are located on the “rock islands,” growing out of a layer of organic matter on top of the coral that results from vegetation and fauna droppings.7 Mangrove forests rapidly expand across Palau, as they occupy its brackish water zones where salt and freshwater meet.7 Swamp forests buffer these mangrove areas, interior volcanic forests grow on volcanic substrates, and savannas exist as remains of areas that have been used to grow agriculture in the past.7 Palau also has a high density of tropical marine habitats, namely the barrier reef that wraps around the main islands and merges into a fringing reef.8 Other marine habitats include marine lakes, seagrass beds, deep algal beds, mud basins, current swept lagoon bottoms, rich tidal channels, and anoxic basins.8
Population and Culture
Palau was first inhabited 2,000-3,000 years ago by people from Indonesia, New Guinea, the Philippines, and other islands in Micronesia.12 The earliest settlers first came to Babeldaob, where they lived in traditional Paulan villages built to fit the island’s natural landscape [See figure 2]. Each village had a chief and was governed through oral law passed down among families and clan lineages.7 Indigenous religions observed the power of ancestry and nature spirits.12
By the beginning of the 19th century, European explorers made their way to Palau, and in 1885, Pope Leo XII laid claim to Palau, among other Pacific Islands, in the name of trade and religious influence.7 Spanish Roman Catholic missionaries began converting Palauans to Christianity, leading to a decline in traditional social and religious values.7
In 1899, Spain sold its Pacific colonies to Germany, and the Germans took advantage of Palau’s natural resources in ways that the Spanish had not. They focused on agriculture and mining for phosphate on the island of Angaur, and they even went as far as to import Pacific Islanders and Chinese foreigners for labor in these economic endeavors.7
During World War I, in 1914, the Japanese took over Germany’s occupation of Palau. They also utilized Palau’s ample environment to their benefit through agriculture, the mining of phosphate and bauxite, and fishing.7 In addition to industrializing Palau’s economy, Japan introduced a formal education system, as well.7
World War II was a hard time for Palau’s people, as the islands occupied by Japan were bombed heavily. This led to individuals resorting to traditional knowledge in fishing and native plants for survival.7
After the Second World War ended in 1945, the U.S. gained influence over Palau and maintained that influence through various means until 1994, when Palau was officially recognized as independent.7 During this time, there was a massive decrease in indigenous population, both due to Palauan casualties during the war and increased immigration by foreigners.7 By the early 21st century, Paulauns became a minority in their own land.7 With this demographic change came cultural change as well, as there was an increase in Western law and regulation and a “deterioration of culture, language, and traditional practices.”7
Currently, Palau is self-governed and, as a result of its complex history, constituted by a diverse population of people from across the world.16 As of 2023, it has a population of 17,600 people.16 Its most populated island is Koror, and its capital, Melekeok, is located on the island of Babeldaob.16 Palau’s official languages are Palauan, English, and Sonsorolese-Tobian.16 Sonsorolese-Tobian is spoken by Palau’s only minority group, which is located in Sonsorol, one of Palau’s southwest islands.12 The group is culturally, as well as linguistically, distinct from the rest of Palau, and its origins are traced to the Ulithi atoll.12
History and Government
As I have detailed in the past section, throughout its history Palau has experienced colonial intrusion by the Spanish, Germans, Japanese, and Americans; Spanish explorers began arriving at the beginning of the 19th century, Spain claimed Palau in 1885, Spain sold Palau to Germany in 1899, Japan expelled the Germans in 1914 during World War I, and Japan lost Palau to the U.S. in World War II.17
Following World War II, the U.S. maintained its influence over Palau through administration by the U.S. Navy.12 Then, in 1947, the UN Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands granted Palau to the U.S. as a trusteeship, which lasted until 1986.12 In the midst of the trusteeship, Palau became self-governing under a constitution in 1981.12
Palau sought its independence through a Compact of Free Association with the U.S. in 1982.12 The compact stated that Palau would be free, but that the U.S. would remain responsible for external security and defense, as well as provide financial assistance to Palau.12 However, the compact was not approved until 1993.12 There was conflict between the U.S. and Palau over Palau’s constitutional prohibition of nuclear warfare, as the U.S. wanted the compact to state the U.S. would be free to operate nuclear powered vessels and aircraft.12 It was not until 1993 that voters in Palau approved an amendment to their constitution, overriding its antinuclear provision.12 Finally, although still largely dependent on the U.S. for finances, Palau gained its independence in 1994.12 It is also important to recognize that to this day, Palau has no armed forces, and it depends fully on the U.S. for protection.12
The overall structure of Palau’s government is a democratic republic, or representative democracy, and it has been since 1981.1 There are three branches of the federal government, much like in the United States. The executive branch is headed by a president and vice president, who are separately elected into office.12 Palau’s current president is Surangel Whipps, Junior.16 The legislative branch is the Olbiil Era Kelulau, or National Congress, and it is divided into a Senate and a House of Delegates.16 The judicial branch is a Supreme Court, trial and appellate courts, courts of common pleas, and land courts.12 Local government consists of an elected governor and legislature for each of Palau’s 16 states.12
Major services offered by Palau’s government include an Environmental Quality Protection Board (EQPB) and a Foreign Investment Board (FIB).10 The EQPB works in collaboration with Palau’s state governments and private entities, as well as other national governments, in order to protect and conserve Palau’s environment and natural resources “so that sound and sustainable economic and social development proceeds in a manner that will not jeopardize Palau’s future possibilities or opportunities.”10 The FIB approves and regulates foreign investment, in an effort to support and expand Palau’s economy and provide business and employment opportunities for citizens.10
Government infrastructure in Palau ranges widely, as it is made up of islands. Some islands, like Koror, Babelthuap, Peleliu, and Angaur have paved roads, but there are still other islands that don’t.12 Public transportation includes a bus service on Koror, regular water ferry services from several islands to Koror, and two small airports, as travel between islands requires such means.14 There is only one airport in Palau that has a paved runway, and that is the international airport on Babeldaob island.13 The main marine port is on Koror and is the only port that can receive large ocean-going vessels.13 There are no railways.13 Lastly, Palau has 17 water treatment plants, 15 of which treat surface water from rivers, and two of which treat groundwater from wells.4
Economy
Unfortunately, a large part of Palau’s economy is dependent on foreign nations. This is partly due to loans it has received from other countries. In 1996, for example, a bridge that connected Koror with Babelthuap collapsed, and Palau accepted $25 million from the Japanese government for the construction of a replacement bridge.12 It is also due to Palau’s heavy reliance on financial assistance from the U.S, as evidenced by the fact that it has no central bank, and its official currency is the U.S. dollar.16
The biggest sector of Palau’s economy is tourism, which has contributed to the country’s economic growth since the late 20th century [See figure 3].12 Palau’s main exports are tuna and clothing, and it primarily exports these goods to the United States [See figure 1].12 Palau’s per capita income is one of the highest in the region.12 It is of note that foreigners, especially from the Philippines and Taiwan, are becoming an increasingly prevalent segment of Palau’s labor force.12
Natural Resources
Palau’s primary natural resource is its biodiversity, as it has the largest species richness in Micronesia.7 It has over 1,389 species of plants, 802 of which are native and 135 of which are endemic.7 Palau also has the most diverse coral fauna of Micronesia, with approximately 400 species of hard corals and 300 species of soft corals.8 It also has “1,400 species of reef fishes, 7 out of 9 of the world’s species of giant clams, thousands of other invertebrates, the world’s most isolated colony of dugongs, and Micronesia’s only saltwater crocodiles.”8
Palau is also bountiful in minerals, such as gold, aggregate, bauxite, phosphate, lignite, and kaolinite, in its limestone islands.8 These minerals are common exports and were also popularly mined throughout the colonial history of Palau.8
Like I mentioned before, one of Palau’s main exports is Tuna.12 This, along with other marine products and resources from Palau’s forests are also important natural resources.11 Another of Palau’s natural resources is its many plant species, which can be used domestically for timber, food, medicine, as habitats for other species, and for cultural and aesthetic value.7 What’s more, Palau offers an abundance of natural environments to explore in recreation, like its rock islands, coral reefs, Jellyfish Lake, beaches, and more.21
Education
Education in Palau is mandatory for children ages six through 14, or “until the student completes 8th grade.”12 Schooling is funded by a U.S. federal grant.12 Palau has a few elementary schools, one secondary school, and one higher educational institution, Palau Community College, which is open to students across Micronesia.12 Government scholarships are also available to fund students’ to go to school abroad.12 Palau has near-total adult literacy.12 Furthermore, 81% of women and 75% of men in Palau have one to four years of college education.12
Healthcare
Palau has one main hospital known as Belau National Hospital, and it is located on Koror.12 Aside from this hospital, Palau also has a few field dispensaries and clinics, four of which are also on Koror, and another four of which are in other satellite locations.20 Palau has a two-part universal healthcare system: National Health Insurance and Medical Savings Account.20 The system is funded by the United States, and all employees are required to join.20 Sadly, Palau still has higher incidences of mental illness, suicide, and alcoholism than most countries.12
Sustainability Commitments and Conservation Efforts
Palau has a rich history of sustainability, going as far back as 1994, when it passed the Marine Protection Act, forbidding fishing for bumphead parrotfish and humphead wrasse.15 A few years later, in 1998, Palau also passed laws protecting sea turtles. Then, in 2006, Palau banned bottom trawling.15 Also in 2006, Palau joined the Micronesia Challenge.2 The Micronesia Challenge is a commitment by five governments (the Federated States of Micronesia, the Republic of the Marshall Islands, Guam, the Northern Mariana Islands, and the Republic of Palau) to effectively conserve 50% of marine resources and 30% of the terrestrial resources across Micronesia by 2030.2 This is meant to be upheld through “fisheries management, reducing invasive species, restoring habitats, increasing livelihood opportunities, and reducing risks to communities from climate impact.”2 In 2009, Palau established the world’s first shark sanctuary.15 In 2010, it declared its Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ) to be a marine mammal sanctuary15 And in 2015, it passed the Dugong Protection Act and the Palau National Marine Sanctuary Act.15 The Palau National Marine Sanctuary Act is unique in that it specifically aimed to protect Palau’s tuna stocks by creating a “no-take” marine sanctuary covering 80% of Palau’s EEZ and making a Domestic Fishing Zone covering 20% of Palau’s EEZ.15 In 2017, Palau created the world’s first conservation pledge: the Palau Pledge.15 The Palau Pledge is stamped into passports of individuals arriving in Palau, with the intention of said visitors signing the stamp as a declaration to protect Palau’s environment and culture.5 Later, in 2018, Palau also introduced the Palau Pristine Paradise Environmental Fee, which is a $100 fee included in the price of any international airline ticket to Palau.5 The money from the fees is then used to provide the financial support necessary to protect Palau’s environment.5 In 2018, Palau also passed the Responsible Tourism Education Act, which states that tourism operators must provide reusable food and water containers to their customers, in order to reduce plastic waste.5 In 2020, Palau was the first nation to ban reef-toxic sunscreen.5 And finally, in 2022, Palau became the first Small Island Developing State to host the Our Ocean Conference.5
Two prevalent committees within Palau that serve to further sustainability and conservation efforts are the Palau Conservation Society and Palau’s Bureau of Environment. The Palau Conservation Society is the leading conservation organization in Palau, and it vows to protect Palau’s unique environment, as well as steward its biodiversity and natural resources.9 The Bureau of Environment makes a similar pledge to protect Palau’s natural environment, conserve resources, and promote sustainable development.3
What is Sustainability?
A practice, process, or entity is sustainable if its initiatives, actions, or impacts serve to meet the social and economic needs of present and future generations within planetary boundaries while ensuring:
- the extraction and use of resources in ways that maximize renewal, protect and restore the health of natural systems, preserve biodiversity, reduce pollution, support climate change mitigation and/or adaptation; and justly protects human health;
- ethical economic development that promotes equitable opportunity and empowers rather than exploits people and the environment; and
- an elevated standard of human well-being that ensures basic human rights, and social justice for all people.
This is best achieved using an inclusive and transparent process that includes a diversity of stakeholders, considers the intersectional nature of sustainability, employs systems thinking, is based on the growing body of scientific information while considering traditional practices, empowers individual and collective action, and is assessed using measurable indicators.
My Project Objectives
Over the course of the rest of this semester, I plan on further evaluating ways that Palau successfully takes action to meet this definition of sustainability, problems that it has as it falls short of meeting the standard of sustainability stated in this definition of sustainability, and solutions to those problems as I see fit and recommend after using systems thinking. I will specifically look at Palau’s sustainability in air, water, transportation, energy, natural resources, and waste, writing individual papers for each of these topics. And lastly, I will create a cumulative asset map that assesses all of these strengths, weaknesses, and challenges to sustainability in Palau.
Bibliography
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2About the challenge. (n.d.). https://themicronesiachallenge.blogspot.com/p/about.html
3Bureau of Environment – PalauGov.pw. (n.d.). PalauGov.pw. https://www.palaugov.pw/executive-branch/ministries/agriculture-fisheries-and-environment/environment/
4Bureau of Reclamation. 2020. “Republic of Palau Water Treatment Plants – Preliminary Assessment.” U.S. Department of the Interior: 1-91. https://www.doi.gov/sites/doi.gov/files/uploads/oia-palauwatertreatmentplants-preliminaryassessment-july2020.pdf
5Cheneva, H. (2018, May 18). Palau Pledge – Palau International Ship Registry. Palau International Ship Registry. https://www.palaureg.com/the-palau-ship-registry/the-republic-of-palau/tourism/palau-pledge/
6Education Resources: Regional Information, Palau | PACIOOS. (n.d.). Pacific Islands Ocean Observing System (PacIOOS). https://www.pacioos.hawaii.edu/education/region-palau/#:~:text=Island%20minerals%3A%20Aggregate%2C%20bauxite%2C,%2C%20insular%20phosphate%2C%20lignite%2C%20kaolinite
7Japan International Research Center for Agricultural Sciences. 2021. Agriculture in Palau. p 1-140, JiRCAS. https://www.jircas.go.jp/en/publication/agriculture_in_palau?page=0
8NOAA CORIS – Regional Portal – Republic of Palau. (n.d.). https://www.coris.noaa.gov/portals/palau.html#:~:text=The%20archipelago%20consists%20of%20a,islands%2C%20and%20low%20coral%20islands.
9Palau Conservation Society. 2022. “About PCS.” https://www.palauconservation.org/#:~:text=Donate%20Now-,Support%20PCS%20Today,steward%20biodiversity%20and%20natural%20resources
10Palau Environmental Quality Protection Board – PalauGov.pw. (n.d.). PalauGov.pw. https://www.palaugov.pw/eqpb/
11Palau geography, maps, climate, environment and terrain from Palau | – CountryReports. (n.d.). https://www.countryreports.org/country/Palau/geography.htm
12Palau | History, Map, flag, population, language, & Facts. (2024, February 2). Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/place/Palau/Climate
13Palau Infrastructure, power, and communications, Information about Infrastructure, power, and communications in Palau. (n.d.). https://www.nationsencyclopedia.com/economies/Asia-and-the-Pacific/Palau-INFRASTRUCTURE-POWER-AND-COMMUNICATIONS.html
14Palau | NON-STATE ACTORS IN EDUCATION | Education Profiles. (n.d.). https://education-profiles.org/oceania/palau/~non-state-actors-in-education
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15Pristine. (2023, August 31). Environmental initiatives – Pristine Paradise Palau. Pristine – Pristine Paradise Palau Consisting of Over 350 Islands in the Pacific. https://pristineparadisepalau.com/environmental-initiatives/
16Shuster, D. R., & Foster, S. (2024, February 2). Palau | History, Map, flag, population, language, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/place/Palau
17The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998, July 20). Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands | Map, Definition, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/place/Trust-Territory-of-the-Pacific-Islands
18The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2024, February 4). Philippine Sea | Maritime Trade, Fishing & Shipping. Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/place/Philippine-Sea
19Thelwell, K. (2019, December 18). An in depth look at education in Palau. The Borgen Project. https://borgenproject.org/update-on-education-in-palau/
20Thelwell, K. (2020, August 21). 6 Facts about Healthcare in Palau. The Borgen Project. https://borgenproject.org/healthcare-in-palau/#:~:text=Palau%20boasts%20a%20universal%20healthcare%20system.&text=It%20works%20through%20two%20pathways,checkups%20and%20out%2Dpatient%20services
21Tripadvisor. (n.d.). THE 15 BEST Things to Do in Palau – 2024 (with Photos) – Tripadvisor. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g294135-Activities-Palau.html